Darjeeling – The Queen of Hills
Posted by barunroy on May 6, 2008
[Reproduced from Himalayan Travelers Guide to Darjeeling by Barun Roy]
Unanimously described as the ‘Queen of Hills’ Darjeeling is unique in its versatility. For the tourists, fresh from the sights of other lands, Darjeeling comes not only as a delightful surprise but as a veritable relief from the hot and sultry weather of the plains. From the surroundings of this unrivalled mountainous town which stands at an average height of 7,000 feet above sea level, one sees the breath-taking beauty of the snow covered peaks, the tips of which seem too silvery to be real, a dappled effect indeed of vivid white and patches of grey.
Darjeeling is at once, both old and new. The cosmopolitan town itself has come a long way since its modest beginnings in 1835. The new includes modern amenities, first class hotels, comprehensive shopping centers; some of India’s most famous boarding-schools, cinema halls and the world’s most sought trekking trails. Yet a few miles of the town one comes into contact with age-old customs and ways of living – hand plowed terraced hill side fields, surrounded by gaily painted huts, hollowed out bamboo pipes for carrying water and villagers still utterly unspoilt by the rush and materialism of the Twenty First Century.
A Brief History
The name ‘Darjeeling’ came from the Tibetan words, “dorje” meaning thunderbolt (originally the scepter of Indra) and “ling” a place or land – Hence, ‘the land of the thunderbolt’. This name could also have been inherited from a Buddhist Monastery of the same name once situated on the top of the Observatory Hill.
The town which originally consisted of a few mud huts surrounding the monastery on Observatory Hill was officially inaugurated by Captain Lloyd and Dr. Chapman. In 1839, the station was handed over to Dr. Campbell who was its first Superintendent. At this time there was not more than 20 families in the district of Darjeeling, and the further building up of Darjeeling, both physically and industrially was due almost entirely to Dr. Campbell’s twenty two years of untiring labour.
From a collection of a few mud-huts it has today grown up to be one of India’s premier hill stations, visited by tourists from distant corners of India and all over the world.
The District of Darjeeling
The District of Darjeeling has an approximate area of 12,000 sq miles with a population of 1,605,900 (2001 census). According to the census, 67 per cent of the population still lives in rural areas. The density of population is about 510 persons per square kilometer and the sex ratio is 940 females to 1000 males. The literacy rate is of 81.28% among males and 63.92% among females. Hindus and Buddhists form the majority in terms of religious groups and Muslims and Christians are relatively fewer in numbers.
The district extends from the marshy and tropical Terai, at an average height of 300 feet above sea level, to the cool heights of the Sandakphu Phalut ridge, about 12,000 feet above sea level. It borders on Sikkim to the North, Bhutan to the East and Nepal to the West. It includes the two other Hill resorts of Kurseong and Kalimpong, 4,864 and 4,100 feet above sea level respectively.
The People of Darjeeling
The original inhabitants of the Darjeeling Hills were Lepchas or Rongpa (the ravine folks) as they prefer themselves to be known as. Though their origin is obscure they are decidedly Mongolian in feature.
The greater bulk of the people in the Hills are Gorkhas. They are industrious and enterprising as a race and speak as many as seven different dialects – Gorkhali or Indian Nepali being the predominantly spoken language. Among the population are also the Sherpas originally from Solo Khumbu and Namche Bazaar. They are well known for their courage, stamina and surefootedness and for their immeasurable contributions to Mountaineering. Tenzing Norgay Sherpa the international hero who conquered Mount Everest along with Sir Edmund Hillary lived and died in Darjeeling. Also much in evidence in the Hills are the Bhutias, Bengalese, Marwaris, Biharis, Sindhis and Punjabis. The people from all these communities give Darjeeling a Cosmopolitan character.
All the hill people are merry and good hearted, well known for their hospitality. Singing and dancing are an integral part of their social and religious life. They have an avid and ingrained thirst for knowledge. Despite modern education and many western influences they are yet really at heart the simple and unspoilt children of nature.
Religion
Darjeeling enjoys a harmonious blending of Hinduism and Buddhism as the town is practically dotted with Hindu temples and Buddhist Monasteries. A close knit community of Christians, Sikhs and Muslims also exists all living in peaceful harmony.
Languages
English, Bengali, Hindi, Nepali and Tibetan are spoken among the different communities – English and Bengali being understood by majority of the people including the guides and hotel attendants.
Climate and Tourist Season
Darjeeling has four seasons – Spring, Monsoon, Autumn and Winter.
After a short and cold winter, spring comes gracefully in as a blessing. Gentle mists occasionally mingled with light rain take the place of the heavy winter fog. The sky though never completely clear of clouds is still clear enough to give a succession of cool calm days. It is during these months – April to June – that Darjeeling enjoys the first tourist season. The whole town is ablaze with colour; in every garden small or big, there is a profusion of flowers – Rhododendron, Magnolia, Gladioli, Tiger Lillies, Hydrangeas, Sweet Peas, Corn flowers, Roses and Dahlias, all combine to deck Darjeeling out as the real “Queen”. This is the time of the year, too, when the various mountaineering expeditions set out, on the trail of high adventure.
The monsoon starts from late June and is usually over by the end of August. About 100 inches, or more, of rain falls during these months, the heaviest rain-fall usually during July. With the end of the monsoon by the end of August, Autumn starts creeping in from September. Darjeeling’s second tourist season is during these Autumn months of September, October and Mid-November. The weather at this time of the year is Darjeeling’s best. Cool languid days with hardly a cloud in a sky of clear and uninterrupted blue; near by slopes, a luxuriant green with blue hills shimmering across the valley and the mighty Kanchanjunga Range stands as a majestic background towering over every thing. Vistas of unrivalled beauty are presented to the visitors. Carnivals, Dog Shows, Dramatic Performances, Music Concerts, and Cultural Fiestas, all combine to make these the ‘magic months’ for Darjeeling.
Nor must the great Hindu Festivals, which are observed at this time of the year, be forgotten. The Temples and Bazaar present a vast seething mass of brightly shifting colours. Joyous and carefree crowds convert Darjeeling into one big Carnival. To climax the season and the Pujas come the Hindu Festival of Diwali (the Festival of Lights). Popularly known as Tihar, Darjeeling has a unique way of celebrating the festival. Much before the sun sets, the youths gather around in their traditional costumes and armed with musical instruments venture from door to door all over the hills singing songs and dancing. Every house and business establishment is enchantingly outlined in the velvety black night, by the flickering oil lamps. Many of the shops are gaily decorated and Indian sweetmeats are, as is the custom, lavishly distributed to all those visiting the shops. A visit to Darjeeling during the Puja Season is undoubtedly an experience of a life time.
For visitors who are not averse to cold and who want a quiet holiday, Darjeeling in the winter is an ideal spot. The mercury drops as low as 1ºC, while heavy fog frequently envelops the town. Towards the end of December there are occasional rain-storms, while snow often falls presenting the traditional ‘White Christmas’.
Traveling up to Darjeeling
Darjeeling is easily accessible from any part of India by Air, Rail or Road -The Railway station at New Jalpaiguri and the Airport at Bagdogra being the links to the outside world. There are numerous flights operated by different airways and the services are also carefully timed to offer convenient connections to all important cities of the nation.
For visitors who have more time to spare, Darjeeling has excellent rail connections. There are routes to practically every part of the nation. Once the visitor disembarks upon New Jalpaiguri he or she could either seek to make the uphill journey by taxi or the world famous and the now UNESCO World Heritage Darjeeling Himalayan Railway. Many holiday makers do prefer taxis or buses which get up to Darjeeling in almost 3 ½ hours but to those who are visiting Darjeeling for the first time traveling by the ‘Toy Train’ as it is affectionately known as, is not just pleasantly interesting but indeed the ride of a life time.
The ‘Toy Train’ on this section winds its way up gradually. Starting from a mere 300 feet above sea level, it ascends to a height of 7,400 feet at Ghoom Station and then descends to 6,812 feet at Darjeeling by a series of hair-pin curves, loops and zig-zags. This railway system owes its inception to Sir Ashley Eden and Mr. Franklin Prestage and is considered to be one of the greatest engineering feats of its kind in the world.
The journey from Siliguri to Darjeeling provides panoramic views and occasionally at bends, one sees the vast fertile plains of Bengal stretching far into the horizon, with rivers, like silver ribbons, meandering lazily over it. Huge trees, giants of the forest, choked by strangulating creepers; gigantic boulders, reminders of past land-slides; cascading water falls roaring from the hill sides, hills slopes given over to tea bushes all make the uphill trip utterly interesting.
